Tengo siempre hambre

The simple act of eating may be the main source of adventures for me here. Every time I journey down the path of hunger, I end up with a new experience or lesson. Resulting in either satisfaction from victory or wisdom from failure. Today I'll be sharing both with you. 

Taste buds and opinions will always differ, fueling the vast variety of foods available to us. Always allowing us to pick and choose what we desire. As a vast generalization, I consider Peruvian food to be fairly mundane. Understanding that is a generalization, there is also some very delicious cuisine being cooked up constantly. Without having easy access to anything outside of the region, the locals have found their own way of utilizing what grows well in the area. The food staples of the region are potatoes, corn and rice. There are more than 2,000 varieties of edible potatoes that grow through Peru. Considering how easy potatoes are to transport, a variety of them can be found at any market. While rice is not grown in the immediate region around the Sacred Valley, it is grown in the coastal and jungle regions. Once again though, it is found everywhere due to its ease of transport and cheap source of sustenance. Corn is absolutely everywhere in Peru. Look to the left, cornfields. Look to the right, cornfields. Look up into the clouds, cornfields. The corn here is very different though. It’s called choclo and has a far different flavor and texture than the sweet corn grown in the states. The kernels are much larger in size. As a rough estimate, the average cob of choclo has about 20 kernels along its entire length. The kernels are so large that they’re actually pulled off the cob by hand and then eaten, one at a time. The skin of the kernels are much thicker and the guts hold a much more starchy taste. Every street corner or plaza seems to have numerous women selling choclo con queso (choclo with cheese) at it. 

Cheese brings me to the subject of refrigeration. It’s almost non-existent here. Milk, cheese, yogurt and all meats sit unrefrigerated for days and sometimes even weeks before being consumed. In the market, meats of all sorts are laid out from early morning until early evening. Visiting the market the next day, I will see the same meats sitting there that didn’t sell the day before. While Peru is in the third-world status, it is developing. Seeing the bustle of cars on the streets and the Internet café on each corner, I simply assumed there would be small refrigerators. However, I now see they simply don’t use them, by choice. The family living above the reception of the hotel has a refrigerator, however when I open it, there is nothing in it. The milk and cheese are actually stored on top of the cold fridge! When I say cheese, don’t picture hard cheeses such as Parmesan or Romano.  The cheese is similar to the texture of mozzarella.

Every traditional dish comes with rice and/or potatoes. Some dishes come with only one of the two, although most include both. My favorite traditional dish of Peru, so far, is lomo saltado. Being a fairly simple dish it, I find it has the most robust flavor. Nestled between a pile of white rice and a stack of potato wedges, they combine seasoned meat with sliced onions and tomatoes. The three-ingredient combination is marinated in chili spices and then sautéed together. Ashley, you’ve talked about cooking more in order to become a master chef; I’ll send you recipes for it! While I’ve tried many of the dishes, I always feel strange taking out my camera at local restaurants. I’ll start making sure to snap off more photos of them though and throw them into random future posts. Unfortunately, due to the toll it takes on my stomach, my favorite foods here are found at street vendors and markets. For two or three soles (a dollar or less), you can purchase anything offered from a street vendor. Each meal comes with a complimentary stomachache in the hours that ensue.

Last week I met my friend Wes in the nearby town of Urubamba. It's quite a bit bigger and has much more selection among stores. A store called San Ysidro sells numerous cheeses, fresh yogurts, and bacon. Yes, bacon! While it is a bit expensive, we purchased some and hope to use it in our cooking soon. 

There is so much more to note regarding the food, although this is all my fingers wish to express at the moment. There will be more. 

I’m sure many began wondering about the guinea pig upon reading about the food. I’ve seen it a few times, but haven’t tried it yet myself. I have my friends, Greg and Aunie, coming into town in two weeks and plan to share the experience with them. Stay tuned!

This is the most typical lunch you can get here. The local lunch. For a range of 5-8 soles, you walk into a restaurant and get the "menu of the day". This is it. Chow down.

Alpaca sandwich. Very basic. I bought this my first night in Peru. I now know of much better places to get it.

The kitchen I cook breakfast at when we do trips to Huancancalle. The hose leads to a propane tank outside. While the foggy window deceives, I assure you the garden view is beautiful.

Banana smoothie during breakfast for the win!

The most effective way to get "Montezuma's Revenge". For 2 soles, you get a delicious stick of meat and potato, covered in chimichurri. Cooked by street vendors on flimsy pieces of steel on a propane stove. It comes complete with a horrible stomach ache and diarrhea about 4-12 hours later.

I lived on these sandwiches for the first 3 weeks. I then spent 2 days in bed, feeling like death. I haven't eaten them since, although I'm sure I'll be back for more before I leave.

Very sweet juice drink made from the local chicha corn (the black corn on the label). Some people absolutely love it and drink it with every meal. I think it's repulsive.

People have asked me how the burritos and fajitas are. This isn't Central America! This is South America! When you ask for fajitas, you get this. Essentially a burrito inside of a pancake. The close-up photo is to show the thickness of the pancake.

This is where it's at. Noodles, rice, chicken, potatoes, ketchup, mayo, and aja sauce (the yellow). 2 soles. Not as effective as the stick-o-meat, but still a very good way of getting "Montezuma's Revenge". I eat it all the time. You occasionally get the leg or neck of the chicken. Chow down.

Amazing juice stand in the market. 4 soles gets you the combinado. A mixture of numerous different fresh fruits (banana, strawberry, papaya, mango, carrots, etc..) with fresh squeezed orange juice. They'll also throw in a raw egg for you.

Want it to go? It comes in a bag with a straw!

Stick-o-meat. Chicken and bologna edition.

Avocado cheese sandwiches. They came and went for me within a day. The cheese here doesn't strike my fancy.

I found a place to get hardy sandwiches! Some friends of mine opened a cafe called La Esquina (the corner) on...you guessed it...the corner of the plaza. Strawberry cinnamon rolls from the previous day are only 1 sole. I spend a lot of time reading my book here.

Pear nectar. It never left my side in Europe and it's the same here. My travel beverage.

I now have access to a kitchen. The first nights were me sitting on the floor as I cut up vegetables while listening to my Spanish lessons. I now have a table and system that allows me to peacefully cook while reading.

Alejandro making his nightly ramen and eggs. Afforable, yet still packed with protein. He's an amazing kid who always tells me he's going to beat me in the Inca Downhill Race.

The first night I cooked my own meal. This is supposed to be rice, onions, tomatoes and carrots. Nothing else. You may be wondering why it looks so mushy. Well...it turns out the Spanish words for salt and baking soda are very similar. The salt here is already very different and similar to baking soda too, which doesn't help. Fortunately, the only other white powder in Peru has a very different name and wont be confused. Since this photo...I've purchased salt.

Typical candy popcorn found in the cities.

The kitchen.

The stove. Cooking some penne florentine.

Alejandro's mother, Marilu, makes this delicious smoothie. It consists of banana, cantelope, grapes, dates, apples and walnuts in a yogurt base. This particular time was on the hottest day since I've been here. It was perfect.

12 sole meal at a local restaurant, away from the touristy plaza. The ingredients are fairly apparent, with a broth sauce.

Marilu also makes this wonderful chicken noodle soup. They'll occasionally make me this and I'll occasionally make them stir fry.

Somehow, I found a place that makes BLT sandwiches. Although they are very different here. The photo makes the bread very deceiving. It falls apart before you touch it. Regardless, it's a wonderful way to mix things up when I have a little extra money.

Street vendor pastry. Pretty much a powdered roll filled with a gooey yellow filling. The filling kinda freaks me out though, due to having absolutely no flavor. Strange. I'll be trying it again soon.

Hands down...the best mocha I have ever had in my life. The chocolate at the bottom is gritty, although in a pleasant sense.

Of course I found a place that sells Kraft Mac n Cheese! It costs an arm and a leg, but my buddy Wes and I decided to make Wednesdays the nights we get to enjoy it. The meat in the center is smoked chorizo.

Words will not describe this deliciousness, nor the massiveness of that avocado.

Chicha. The illegally brewed beer made from chicha, the local corn. This version is pink because it is chicha fresca (strawberry chicha), which is supposed to knock a bit of the bitterness off. Even with the strawberry, it doesn't satisfy my taste buds one bit. Chicherias, chicha brewery/sellers, are indicated by houses that have sticks at the front door with a red plastic bag on the end. If you see a red bag, you can knock on the door and walk inside to enjoy a glass of chicha.

Yes...a Big Mac. After you eat all the Peruvian food you can, sometimes you have to cave. I needed a burger while I was in Cusco. Needed one. Unfortunately the only place to get a burger is McDonalds (the only one within hundreds and hundreds of kilometers). I NEVER go to McDonalds in the states, but it was required here.

Dwindling in music:
Pinback - Nautical Antiques
Neil Young - Harvest
MiM0SA - September 2011 Mix
Frank Zappa - Apostrophe/Overnite Sensation