I've been caught up in the mix lately, to say the least. Mainly because, I'm coming back early. Yup indeed, shortening my stay here in Peru. Coming here to ride my bike, I've found myself completing what I came down to do. You may be thinking, "I'm sure there are thousands of trails he still hasn't ridden." You're completely correct. Regardless, I feel my desire to mountain bike the Andes has been fulfilled. I've now ridden numerous high-altitude trails, down from sun gates, through Inca quarries, into the jungle, through crowds of cheering kids, and descended from the highest navigable road until you cross the ocean to Tanzania. I'm still in awe when I think back on each of those rides. Yet, I'm now looking for somewhere new of course. The more I read about the Anderson Truck trail in Temecula and the Telescope Peak singletrack in Death Valley, the more I realize that regardless where you are in the world, repetition can become too much of a routine rather than adventure. I'm stopping here actually. It's simple...I'm coming back. Stateside April 4th.
Grappling with this decision, I've immediately realized how much more there actually is that I want to do before I leave. Trek to Choquequirao, ride my bike more, and venture through the Amazon. All of these will still happen, but they will cause the next few weeks to be jam-packed with researching, logistics, and putting one foot, or spoke, after the next. Here's the itinerary:
17&18th: Bike tour trips. My friends Greg and Aunie arrive on the 18th too!
19-22nd: Trek round trip to Choquequirao.
23rd: Take Greg and Aunie biking on some local trails.
24th: Visit Machu Picchu.
25th-2nd: Travel by foot and boat with my buddy Wes throughout the Amazon through Shintuya, Manu, Colon, Puerto Maldonado, and then ending back in Cusco.
3rd: Fly out.
In other words, there will probably be only one more post. Most likely from the Cusco, Lima, or Houston airport.
The last few weeks have been a period of solitude, pain, beautiful weather, happiness, and delicious food. After rolling my ankle about 3 weeks ago, time was spent simply reading, eating, and enjoying the sunshine. Around a week ago, I decided to get back on my bike. Everything was great until the last slope of the ride. I ended up riding through a cactus at the bottom, in a state of completely uncontrolled mayhem. For those of you who ride, you know it can be the most terrifying, yet exhilarating feeling. Once I stopped, I looked down to find a cactus stuck in my right shin. I had my friend put down his camera and use both hands to pull it out. Everything seemed fine at first, although that evening I found the cactus to be poisonous and that at least one of the 1-2 inch needles remained buried in my shin. My days have now been put through a regiment of ibuprofen, water and staying off of it as much as possible. With each step I take, I can feel the area in which the needle is. The doc says that, unless it gets infected, I should simply wait it out until my body breaks down the needle. While I can't ride my bike, I'm still using my time to explore as much as possible. Reminds me of this:
"There is nothing like walking to get the feel of a country. A fine landscape is like a piece of music; it must be taken at the right tempo. Even a bicycle goes too fast." - Paul Scott Mowrer
Here is a random assortment of photos from lately. Along with some from when I first arrived here in Ollanta. No particular order. Enjoy!
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| A gully on a salt mines bike trip I guide. The grass is naturally kept golf course length by the cows. Absolutely beautiful! |
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| Maras. A small town with little tourism. I love the small doors in this town. The first time I rode my bike through it, a little 6 year old yelled "Give me your bike gringo!" |
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| Preparing to pull of the road, onto the next section of trail after Maras. |
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| The closest a mountain biker can feel to being Simba. I rode up this super quick into a little nose stoppy, only to realize there is a 100 meter drop on the other side. |
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| Wes preparing to pull the cactus out of my shin. |
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| Finishing our ride down to Rio Urubamba. |
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| Brian, Wes (the local kids call him Hueso, meaning "bone" in Spanish), and some silly biker guy. |
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| The result of bicycle mayhem. One of those needles is currently in my leg. Slowly being digested by my body. |
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| The end of the rainy season here was a mountain biker's dream. Wet dream to be precise. Riding my bike until my skin is pruned, eyebrows are dripping mud, and my bike is naturally cleaned by the rain. |
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| How many bikes can you fit in the back of a taxi? This many was cake. |
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| Pooches love being around the bikes. Pooch magnets. |
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| Peru has caused me to fall in love with epiphytes. |
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| The cleanest and most exhilarating singletrack I've ever ridden...it's 500+ years old. |
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| My first sight of the Sun Gate above Ollanta. |
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| I dig this simply because it exemplifies the moment I was having. |
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| The majority of my rides involve a standoff. I've developed numerous tactics. Most involve keeping my bright red Camelbak out of sight. |
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| Don't like trails? Make your own. The locals love it and you couldn't cause erosion problems if you tried. |
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| Moooooooooo |
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| The flora may not be biker friendly, but it simply fine-tunes your ability to read a trail. |
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| Pumamarca from above. |
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| Icing the pulled muscle in my foot during a taxi ride on a backdoor trip to Machu Picchu. |
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| Outside my window at the jungle lodge in St. Teresa. |
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| This is how I spend my evenings after guiding through jungle towns. |
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| I really wish the photographer would have cropped out the sandbag! The river had previously flooded, causing the locals to use sandbags to route the flow. |
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| It's funny how the massive maroon flower is never shown when depicting banana trees. In my opinion, it's the most beautiful part of the tree. |
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| Backdoor Machu Picchu trip. |
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| This reminds me of the beautiful Ashley Lorona making a bouquet on Thanksgiving day. |
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| Made my eyes hungry. |
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| Sweets! $4 total. All homemade. The darker berries to the very left are called sauco. They originate in Peru and are known for stimulation of perspiration and the purification of the blood. Amazing yogurt is made from sauco berries. |
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| Yup...not even Peru could keep me from banana pancakes and scrambles eggs. |
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| The beginning of the hike, right after the Inca bridge, to the Sun Gate and/or watering pool. |
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| Hiking up to the Sun Gate. |
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| Hike on! |
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| 101 minus 100 Dalmatians in a field. |
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| A participant on a guided trip. |
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| The salt mines of Salineras. Around 100 families own all these pools, dating back to pre-Inca times. All are gravity fed from a stream that's merely a trickle. During the dry season, these pools are so white they hurt the eyes. |
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| Church of Maras. |
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| Budding cactus. |
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| On a ride down from Moray. |
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| We've found the ice cream man! His name is Silvio and he produces the most delicious ice cream from his Styrofoam box wrapped in packaging tape. This delicious passion fruit ice cream cost a whopping 20 cents. |
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| Pool used to water the choclo fields. 500+ years old. Over time, we've realized the guy in the top right corner bathes there at 3:15 every day. |
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| Right next to the pool. |
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| My method of shielding the 11+ UV index rating of Southern Peru. |
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| Poolside banter. |
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| This little girl was not going to move until she broke apart the entire block of Styrofoam. The environment was crying, but this girl was experiencing the highlight of her day. |
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| Barkeep! |
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| The Texan, Bostonian, and Idafornian. The experiences with these two people themselves rival the ones I've had with Peru alone. |
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| I can think of worse places to relax. |
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| This is the expression I often make when crawling up an Andean mountain with a bike on my back. |
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| No caption necessary. |
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| Consumed by the cloud forest. |
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| The view my back tire has while I'm riding down a trail. |
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| I feel like I'm about to smack my bike's booty. Which is exactly how I felt at the moment. "Here we go champ!" |
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| While the photo doesn't show it, these clouds are whipping over the mountain. It reminded me of rush hour traffic. All of them desiring more speed. Either making it on their own or merging in order to get to Point B faster. |
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| Veronica glacier in the top right. While there is a documented ascent of it, it is said to have actually been an unsuccessful attempt. |
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| Need more air! I refuse to pinch-flat! |
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| I can remember what I was listening too. Blackbird Blackbird. |
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| The ONLY way to get up some of these trails. |
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| First lesson of Peru: follow the sounds of drums and trumpets...you'll find a festival. During this specific festival, both sides of the town compete in a massive tug-of-war across the only bride in town. My side of town, Ollanta, won! While the other side of town, San Ysidro, may be considered the "red" area, the kids there seem much more adventurous and personable. Although, they also have ankle-destroying soccer courts. |
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| I love colors! |
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| This dance went on for about 20 minutes, circling the band that is to the left of the photo. |
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| I learned more Spanish during this haircut than I usually do in a week here. |
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| Another fun bike obstacle. Landslide! Ended up throwing my bike across and continuing on. |
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| "It's Sunday, lets chop a skinned bull head with a maul!" |
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| Guiding a trip starting at the terraces of Moray. |
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| This is what happens when Wes tries to make chocolate banana pancakes. |
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| The power goes out constantly here. I absolutely love it. I now love candles even more. |
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| Hey mom...I LOVE YOU! An Israeli woman made the sign for me while guiding a trip down to the jungle. She wanted me to tell you, "I know how to spell mommy, but I simple ran out of room. Bare with me!" The leaves right next to my left hand are coca leaves. |
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| Precious little pup on a trip. |
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| And...I'm off! |
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| It's hard to focus on riding when the scenery is this beautiful. |
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| I've had a local ask me if I'm crazy or dumb. I simply told him I love my wife and pointed at my bike. |
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| I had to assure Wes that I'd be in far worse condition if I landed near him. |
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| Pedal on. |
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| How I see the Inca DH. |
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| This is how I find peace and clarity. |
Musical enhancement for today:
Derek & the Dominos - Layla & Other Assorted Love Songs
Gorillaz - Plastic Beach
LCD Soundsystem - Self-titled
Mazzy Star - She Hangs Brightly
Belle & Sebastian - Tigermilk